Restricted Access
Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
An eliminate but one which takes you to some great positions and includes the spectacular direct finish to Rock Idol. Start as for Joyous Gard but break left up a diagonal crack onto the wall. Climb this until level with the roof on Rock Idol then move right and climb direct to a break. Step right into Joyous Gard then pull back left and up to join Rock Idol. Go direct where this goes right up very steep and juggy ground to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the wall right of Rock Idol on some superb rock.
FA. P.Donnithorne, L.Jones 21/Jun/2008.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen
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Preposterous Tales
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Bosherston Head)