7 pitches.
A super climb on fantastic rock. The fifth and sixth pitches are especially good, and worth sprinting through the four easy bottom pitches for.
I’ve taken the liberty of upgrading this from the nonsense 5c grade it receives in Solo Granito, as follows:
P1: 5a [plenty of bolts]
P2: 3b [very short, bolts]
P3: 4a [bolts]
P4: walk
P5: 6a+ [a few bolts, full set of cams required unless you enjoy huge run-outs when making technical slab crux moves]
P6: 6a [no bolts, entirely natural pro; full set of cams and some medium nuts essential]
P7: 5b [bolts]
Descent: back down the route, twin 50m ropes allow you to reach the ground in 5 abseils. Bolted for abseil descent throughout, though some anchors may need backing up with fresh tat.
I’ve taken the liberty of upgrading this from the nonsense 5c grade it receives in Solo Granito, as follows:
P1: 5a [plenty of bolts]
P2: 3b [very short, bolts]
P3: 4a [bolts]
P4: walk
P5: 6a+ [a few bolts, full set of cams required unless you enjoy huge run-outs when making technical slab crux moves]
P6: 6a [no bolts, entirely natural pro; full set of cams and some medium nuts essential]
P7: 5b [bolts]
Descent: back down the route, twin 50m ropes allow you to reach the ground in 5 abseils. Bolted for abseil descent throughout, though some anchors may need backing up with fresh tat.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
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Route of Interest
Polimago
Grade: 6a+ ***
(Val di Mello)