200m, 4 pitches.
1. 30m. From the lowest rocks of the buttress follow the v-groove up to an overhang which forces you leftwards by a foot ledge. Continue above to a ledge and a continuation corner which leads to another ledge and belay.
2. 40m. Follow grooves and overhung corners up to the right with hard won gear. Difficulties ease with height until a ledge is reached which is followed to its highest point, beneath a wall with an obvious right facing corner at its left end.
3. 30m. Follow the steep corner-crack. The initial impending, apparently blank section, is the crux. Turf and hooks increase in abundance with height until the corner widens to an off-width crack and falls back in angle. Follow this till easier ground can be reached on the right.
4. 100m. Follow much easier ground along the crest of the buttress and up to the final wall and the top.
2. 40m. Follow grooves and overhung corners up to the right with hard won gear. Difficulties ease with height until a ledge is reached which is followed to its highest point, beneath a wall with an obvious right facing corner at its left end.
3. 30m. Follow the steep corner-crack. The initial impending, apparently blank section, is the crux. Turf and hooks increase in abundance with height until the corner widens to an off-width crack and falls back in angle. Follow this till easier ground can be reached on the right.
4. 100m. Follow much easier ground along the crest of the buttress and up to the final wall and the top.
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Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Steven Andrews | 23 Dec, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route but probably V6 with all of the three main pitches having interest. Frozen turf and helpful ice but could have done with a bit of neve build up to ease a few sections. Walked in as per guidbook (2hrs 20 - nice frozen ground) and walked off via the spur to the south and along the path above the loch (2hrs). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route but probably V6 with all of the three main pitches having interest. Frozen turf and helpful ice but could have done with a bit of neve build up to ease a few sections. Walked in as per guidbook (2hrs 20 - nice frozen ground) and walked off via the spur to the south and along the path above the loch (2hrs). |
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Route of Interest
Viking Gully
Grade: IV 4 ***
(Ladhar Bheinn)