An audacious and improbable pitch with a technical and fingery crux. Wild and runout with reliable protection where it matters most.
From the stance below the final pitch of Jelly Roll, step right and follow the cracks trending slightly rightward at first to a horizontal break below a blank shallow groove. (Good runners). Move up and right with difficulty to better holds above. Continue to belay on a ledge below a short groove. (From here it is possible to sneak off left around the arete and reach the ledge at the top of Jelly Roll.)
From the stance below the final pitch of Jelly Roll, step right and follow the cracks trending slightly rightward at first to a horizontal break below a blank shallow groove. (Good runners). Move up and right with difficulty to better holds above. Continue to belay on a ledge below a short groove. (From here it is possible to sneak off left around the arete and reach the ledge at the top of Jelly Roll.)
Johnny Dawes, Dave Greenald, Nick Dixon 15/Jul/2018.
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Guidebooks for Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy)
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Route of Interest
The Wonderful World of Walt Disney
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Twll Mawr)