The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Start 10m right of the large tree at a clear strip of rock. Climb the wall left of a pinnacle to a ledge at 4m and then move right to a ledge above the pinnacle itself. The thin slab above gains another ledge, from where a rightward line up the continuation slab reaches a gully and tree belay above. © Rockfax
Shorn Cliff Nose , Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Shorn Cliff)