45m. Direct Start starts as of P1 of the summer route Grannie Clark's Wynd, namely at a cracked left-facing corner 8m left of 2m-wide turfy blob, and 3m left of a little icy pillar. The pitch follows the crack for 15m with the overhanging bulge at 10m being the lower crux (tech 6), where good hooks and pros can be found. Sustained all the way. After 10m of less steep terrain, arriving at the bottom of a triangular prow, the first winter ascentionist parted from the original summer line of Grannie Clark's Wynd, which follows the right side of the prow (according to the topo in pp.142 of the SMC definitive guide 2011), but climbed the left side of it, following the rising flake crack in the left-facing corner for 10m, before hitting the front wall and turning right to follow another (right-facing) corner to the belay, where it joins the original Frankland's Gully. The flake crack, though it may appear benign from below, is the crux (hard tech 6) of this pitch and is another sustained climbing, where a giant cam would have been handy, though not essential. Note if the ice is well developed, to follow the summer line at the junction and then to follow the ice stream above to the belay might be easier.

The pitch is very sustained, involving a few tech 6 moves and numerous tech 4-5 moves in continuously steep terrain. The route is reasonably protected, except for the opening 4m (tech 4 or 5). When combined with this start, Frankland's Gully would be one of the best mountain winter routes at the grade in Scotland.

Masa Sakano, Tom Bishop 02/Feb/2019.

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Black Cleft

Grade: VI 7 ***
(Sgurr Mhic Choinnich)

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