Rockfax Description
Start left Pinnacle Buttress's initial chimney.
1) 4a, 8m. Climb the face of the block rightwards to a spike on the arete. Move up right to reach the top of the chimney on the first pitch of Pinnacle Buttress. Belay as for Pinnacle Buttress.
2) 9m. Easy scrambling leads to below a steeper wall.
3) 4a, 13m. Follow short walls and then a crack on the left to a ledge under final crack.
4) 4a, 8m. Climb the crack to the tip of the pinnacle. Climb down and bridge across to a short finishing wall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start at the top of the steps, beneath the foot of the buttress.
1) 4a. Climb the block, moving right, to its edge (small spike); then move round to the top of the chimney. Belay.
2) 4a.Climb up over blocks, to a wall with a jagged crack on its left. Climb this crack, and belay on the ledge.
3) 4a. Climb the crack in the wall, leaving it to go up direct. Climb over the
pinnacle, and step across the gap to a short wall; this wall leads to the belay. The gap has been jumped, starting from the very top of the pinnacle: The Devil’s Jump. VARIATION
3a) 4a. Move out right, from the ledge; take the overhang direct (bold), and climb to the pinnacle. Step across to belay.
Unknown 01/Jan/1960.
Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial , S Devon & Dartmoor’s Severe Stars , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
BuzyG | 11 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lovely Climb to start the day with. My first HS lead up the crack on P2, to belay off the top of the panicle We thought we were doing the VD route, but just went for it straight up. Not a lot of room for three of us up there. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Lovely Climb to start the day with. My first HS lead up the crack on P2, to belay off the top of the panicle We thought we were doing the VD route, but just went for it straight up. Not a lot of room for three of us up there. |
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Grade: HS 4a ***
(Lundy)