Rockfax Description
(Only Bilberries) A pure classic and, despite its distance from the road, it is very popular. The name is Norwegian for a task of no great difficulty; obviously it refers to the climb, not the walk in.
1) N4, 26m. Start up a small slab and move up to a shallow left-facing corner. Climb this, or a thin finger-crack on the right, to reach a good ledge at the base of a main crack.
2) N5-, 34m. Finger and hand jam up the fantastic crack above to a small belay stance where the angle of the rock lessens. Cams helpful at the belay.
3) N5-, 32m. Continue up the V-groove, which steepens and becomes increasingly awkward. When the crack inside the groove becomes too thin, step out right around the arete into another crack. Climb up this to a good belay ledge at flakes.
4) N5-, 28m. Layback the flake wedged inside the V-groove above until you reach several loose chockstones. Now step delicately to the right around the corner into a hidden crack and climb this to more flakes and another good stance.
5) N5-, 40m. Continue up the single, sustained crack system splitting the upper slab - elegant finger and hand-jamming up perfect rock. When the crack finally thins, climb to the right to a bolt and chain belay to the left of a huge flake.
6) N5-, 40m. An unlikely looking pitch with excellent climbing. Climb up and move left to pass a small roof. Step back right and follow a shallow groove and crack system more or less straight up the upper slab to a small belay stance with a two bolt belay.
7) N4-, 48m. One last pitch leads up the easier slab to reach a belay at the base of the cliff's steeper headwall. Be aware of loose rock on this pitch and the fact there are climbers below. © Rockfax

T Hansen, I Raastad 1986.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50 , Lofoten Mid Grade Routes , Lofoten 2021

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