275m. The easiest of the major Nevis ridges (after ledge route) but still makes a very fine mountaineering expedition. Beware of avalanches from the castle area above, otherwise it is possible in most conditions. Traverse right onto the ridge from below the castle gullies and scramble up it via easy walls and slabs. At the steepening, climb a steep groove to a ledge and then traverse right in a spectacular position. From a niche, a very exposed chimney on good flakey holds leads to a ledge and belay. Another steep pitch leads to an easing in the ridge, and easier ground leads to the top.
In good conditions an excellent descent is to ascend to the north summit of Carn Dearg and descend ledge route. If descending via the halfway Lochan, traverse the hillside west from the top of the ridge for 300m to avoid the north face of Carn Dearg.

Collie JN, Naismith WW, Thomson G, Traverse M 12/Apr/1895.

Ticklists

Ben Nevis Ridges , Winter Aspirations , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , 2019 all-rounder Psyche list , Snow and Ice , Winter 20-21 Ticklist , Wishlist 2021/22 , Winter 22/23 , Winter Punterland

Feedback

User Date Notes
palg11 25 Feb Show βeta
βeta: Less than ideal snow conditions but a fantastic day out. We traversed right at the base of a steep chimney to another chimney further along (crux). Another group took the chimney on the left and both seemed to go (although the one on the left looked harder!)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Less than ideal snow conditions but a fantastic day out. We traversed right at the base of a steep chimney to another chimney further along (crux). Another group took the chimney on the left and both seemed to go (although the one on the left looked harder!)
DJF 25 Feb, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: To help with route finding- There is an in-situ nut and peg just before you turn the corner for the crux. There is also an in situ yellow cam in the crux. So when you see these, you're going the right way.
Show beta
βeta: To help with route finding- There is an in-situ nut and peg just before you turn the corner for the crux. There is also an in situ yellow cam in the crux. So when you see these, you're going the right way.

Logged Ascents

626 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Ben Nevis

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 231 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
Votes cast 84
Votes cast 82
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Good Friday Climb

Grade: III ***
(Ben Nevis)

Loading Notifications...