Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A good varied pitch. Start at a large flowstone crack. Climb the crack, staying left where it meets Go With the Flow, to a thin ledge. Move up to a bay below the upper overhangs and pull past them on good holds to reach a lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start at the large flowstone crack left of Go With the Flow. Climb this staying left as it joins Go With the Flow onto a thin ledge with tricky move up the bay below the roof. Power over these on good holds to the left-hand lower-off.
FA. Mick Ward Jul/2018.
Ticklists
Portland , Work you fucking piece of shit , Dorset 2-3* 6a's
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Central
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Underage
Grade: 6a ***
(Coastguard South)