Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

Rockfax Description
Start to the right of an embedded flake and climb up just left of the bolt to reach a ramp-line that leads up to a third bolt. A tricky move left gains a jug on the arete. Follow this past bolts to a final move to gain another ramp-line just below the lower-off. © Rockfax

FA. Mark Reeves, Duncan Spencer 4.7.2018 04/Jul/2018.

Ticklists

All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6a & 6a+ , Easy peasy Northy Weesy

Feedback

User Date Notes
Robert Tanulak 24 Mar Show βeta
βeta: large block fell off today and more potential loose rock exposed
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: large block fell off today and more potential loose rock exposed
LucaC 9 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Literally terrible. Good potential to wreck yourself if you fell off. Weird climbing and poor rock.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Literally terrible. Good potential to wreck yourself if you fell off. Weird climbing and poor rock.
BarwoodP 15 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: trust your feet and you will be fine, bolts are well placed. Loved the top section 3D climbming
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: trust your feet and you will be fine, bolts are well placed. Loved the top section 3D climbming

Logged Ascents

66 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Australia

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 52 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Loading Notifications...