Restricted Access
July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock) in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area.
The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.
BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.
Rockfax Description
The third section is perhaps the most atmospheric, taking in the wild and remote Lost World and Mordor areas.
1) From the Pen Garret Hut, walk along for 100m or so to where a scree slope leads down a level, just past the back of the California Hole. This leads to a corridor which brings you to Heaven Walls.
2) Abseil from a bolt belay just below the edge on a ramp.
3) Walk along to the corner and make a second abseil from a rope around a block.
4) On the next level, walk right (looking out) to find a ladder. Climb down this and the next ladder to reach the base of the hole.
5) Head over to the tunnel through to Mordor and go through this.
6) Walk round the left side of the hole, past a rockfall, and take the double ladders up to the Khyber Pass.
7) From here take another double set of ladders to the top of Mordor.
8) From the top of the Khyber Pass, head up a vague path on scree, past a drystone tower, to the level above. Walk right around the top of a landslide. Descend a path to a major incline back down to the main track, then head back through the quarries.
The Lost World Extension - There are some tunnels to explore here. You can extend the tour with an extra loop by walking along the top level and through the tunnel to find the abseil point above The Wall Within. Abseil down here back to the base of The Lost World and repeat the tunnel and ladders from here again. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fruit | 24 Mar, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Don’t try the extra ab down wall within with a 60m rope (doubled) unless you want to do a scary re-belay half way down the wall! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Don’t try the extra ab down wall within with a 60m rope (doubled) unless you want to do a scary re-belay half way down the wall! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for The Lost World/Heaven Walls
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Wrinkled Tower
Grade: M ***
(Tryfan)