25m. It's a mind-blowing climb. Start as for Cave Route but exit the first ledge by climbing the vertical blocky wall right of the groove. Slot a medium sized cam into a blind crack to protect a powerful move up the small roof. Finish as for Cave Route. Si Lynch 2009.

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User Date Notes
KMrphy 11 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Saw one nest which appears to be empty now. Didn’t see any wagtails around even in the burn where they usually are.
βeta?
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βeta: Saw one nest which appears to be empty now. Didn’t see any wagtails around even in the burn where they usually are.
jclarkson25 25 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Currently a bird nesting in the crack above the first major leg. Nest has eggs. Please avoid this route until eggs have hatched and chicks have fledged!!
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βeta: Currently a bird nesting in the crack above the first major leg. Nest has eggs. Please avoid this route until eggs have hatched and chicks have fledged!!
Steph Sly 30 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: There is a bird nesting in the right hand crack above the first ledge. I disturbed the bird when I climbed up onto the ledge, before I'd got high enough to see the nest. I managed to climb around the nest by going up the middle and traversing back to the right crack (which felt pretty strenuous) and I have put a chalk X by it. But best to avoid the route until the eggs have hatched.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a bird nesting in the right hand crack above the first ledge. I disturbed the bird when I climbed up onto the ledge, before I'd got high enough to see the nest. I managed to climb around the nest by going up the middle and traversing back to the right crack (which felt pretty strenuous) and I have put a chalk X by it. But best to avoid the route until the eggs have hatched.

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Guidebooks for Huntly's Cave

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 40
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 42
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Diagonal

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Huntly's Cave)

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