Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Signed restriction, applies to the whole crag. 

The site will be monitored and the restriction lifted if nesting does not take place, or later if the young birds fledge early. This page will be kept updated as soon as any additional information is received.

55m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The attractive stepped groove up the centre of the left-hand buttress. There is usually a lot of moss on the route which makes it significantly harder and more precarious in damp or wet conditions - feels more like HVS.
1) 4b, 10m. Climb ledges up and slightly right to reach a break. The climbing is easy to here but there is no reliable gear. Pull up and step right to a small stance.
2) 4c, 35m. Traverse left and up to gain the groove. Climb this, mostly on the left wall, to a short groove. Pull back right onto slabby (and mossy) rock and move up to a big grass ledge. Abseil descent possible from here.
3) 4a, 12m. Climb the cracked wall behind the stance to the top. © Rockfax

R B Evans, I F Howell Aug/1960.

Ticklists

Lakeland Revival 2015 , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS

Feedback

User Date Notes
charliesdad 27 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The abseil tat at the top of P2 was rotten, and we removed it. There is a new abseil point at the top of P3 which is much easier to use, and reaches the bottom with 50m ropes. We climbed in dry conditions, but still found the abundance of moss made it a nervy lead. Take a good brush!
Show beta
βeta: The abseil tat at the top of P2 was rotten, and we removed it. There is a new abseil point at the top of P3 which is much easier to use, and reaches the bottom with 50m ropes. We climbed in dry conditions, but still found the abundance of moss made it a nervy lead. Take a good brush!
D.botts87 8 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Checked RAD and bird restrictions were lifted early this year.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Checked RAD and bird restrictions were lifted early this year.
Alan James - Rockfax 9 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch has no gear until the break at around 8m. Climbing is easy but the rock is moss-covered so it could be very scary in damp conditions. About VDiff/S in dry conditions. Second pitch is quite good and you can abseil off from the tree although the top pitch looks quite good.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first pitch has no gear until the break at around 8m. Climbing is easy but the rock is moss-covered so it could be very scary in damp conditions. About VDiff/S in dry conditions. Second pitch is quite good and you can abseil off from the tree although the top pitch looks quite good.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Heron Crag, Eskdale

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 16
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dexter Wall

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Grey Crag (Buttermere))

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