Restricted Access

The crag is in Range West, an Army live-firing range. Briefed climbers (with a valid permit) can access the crag year round when the range is not live (all weekends & on Bank Holidays plus some weekdays). Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed. The eastern end of the platform gets wet VERY QUICKLY once the tides is in, but the left-hand section is non-tidal. Cautionary note; This platform can become a very serious place to belay if the sea gets up.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Nesting restriction (1st March - 1st August) includes King Prawn to Luck of the Devil inclusive. Note: The abseil hole may be used to access non-restricted climbs only but please do not loiter in the area of the hole as this will prevent birds from accessing their nest site and feeding chicks.

36m. Update Aug 2021: Upper part of the route has been affected by rockfall and is not in the original state described by the guidebook. Take Care.

FA. P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 20/Sep/1992.

Ticklists

The Best of Pembroke , Orange Spot Pembroke , UK Holiday Plans

Feedback

User Date Notes
joem 31 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The very to corner has fallen down, can be easily avoided on the right by the arete or the crack just right of where the corner should be can be taken direct but this probably ups the grade to at least 5b. Still and excellent route with most of it unaffected.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The very to corner has fallen down, can be easily avoided on the right by the arete or the crack just right of where the corner should be can be taken direct but this probably ups the grade to at least 5b. Still and excellent route with most of it unaffected.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 2
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Welcome to the Cruise

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Triple Overhang Buttress)

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