300m. The left-hand branch of the obvious Y shaped south facing chasm. This and its neighbour require a good hard freeze, most likely to form in early season when day light is shortest due to the southerly aspect. may form before the ice routes on the main crag are complete. Pitch 1 and 2 as for the right hand branch. Pitch 3: in the open bay, take the narrower left hand branch steeply out into the upper gully (20m). next continue easily over several short steps until the angle of the gully rears up again in the headwall. crux pitch: follow a few short steep steps into the base of a narrow rocky cleft, take the final steep ice fall, easiest on its left (3/4) harder direct (4/5?) to reach the top. A very steep (6?) alternative may be possible to the right of the main flow in the final headwall up a slight subsidiary fall.

P.S This route is actually the previously named 'Highway to hell'

A.Kay, J.Main 1982.

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Grade: III ***
(Beinn an Dothaidh)

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