Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

29m.

Rockfax Description
A good variation finish. Move right, across the chimney from the ear of rock and climb up pockets and over the roof (no bridging back across the chimney) to a lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb Gone Amongst Innocent Angels until stood on exposed ear. Use a very long extender on the bolt above then step across chimney and climb up to roof on pockety rock (no stepping back). Climb through steep ground on good holds (again without stepping back across chimney).

FA. Marti Hallett 06/Dec/2017.

Ticklists

Portland , Work you fucking piece of shit

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Walking the King

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Coastguard South)

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