Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

29m.

Rockfax Description
Start just right of Lord Stublock Deepvoid Breaks the Chain of Causation. Head straight up until forced right to the arete. Follow the arete (keep off the far wall) past some good pockets to an ear. Gain a ledge below a block, then move up and left on good holds to finish just right of a lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Line of 6mm P bolts starting just right of Lord Stublock Deepvoid Breaks the Chain of Causation. Move straight up until the bulge forces you on the the arête (stepping across is cheating and unnecessary). Follow arête with some good pockets to ease difficulties until you arrive to position on an exposed big ear. A long move gains the ledge under a big block, move up and left on good holds to finish just right of the Lord Stublock Deepvoid Breaks the Chain of Causation lower-off.

FA. Marti Hallett 05/Dec/2017.

Ticklists

Portland , Work you fucking piece of shit

Feedback

User Date Notes
Gazmataz 19 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Beware of the two bolts at the top that look like an anchor but aren’t. You still have a big over hanging move to go to get to the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Beware of the two bolts at the top that look like an anchor but aren’t. You still have a big over hanging move to go to get to the top.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ocean Drive

Grade: 6b ***
(Blacknor Far South)

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