Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

32m.

Rockfax Description
Start up One Fine Day and take the right-hand line of staples. Follow the curling overlap and then go right. Long quickdraws useful to avoid drag. Take care lowering off as the route is 30m. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start as for One Fine Day but take the right-hand line of staples. Follow the curling overlap and then go right. Long quickdraws useful to avoid drag. Full 60m rope required, long route in great position.

FA. Mick Ward 31/Oct/2017.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
brian watson 10 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Choss fest!
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βeta: Choss fest!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Last of the Summer Wine

Grade: 5c ***
(Blacknor Central)

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