Restricted Access

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply 
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing
14m.

Rockfax Description
A superb pitch that has a puzzling start. Makes some boulder problem style moves up the initial wall and then tackle the overhangs and linking slim corner/grooves above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Boulder out the start to reach good holds below the roof. Reach over for a good hold and sprint up to the break. The wall above is easier, but no stroll.

Matt Ward, Martin J Crocker 02/Jul/1988.

Ticklists

CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , Ban-y-Gor Master , 6Cs with stars near Bristol , Wye Valley Sport

Feedback

User Date Notes
Saqib 4 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The first three moves are basically the whole route. Rest of route is nice. First right hand hold use closed crimp and stick foot out right to stabilise as you go up to decent hold.
Show beta
βeta: The first three moves are basically the whole route. Rest of route is nice. First right hand hold use closed crimp and stick foot out right to stabilise as you go up to decent hold.

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