Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

85m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A phenomenal second pitch. Start at a groove left of the corner crack at the start of The Jackal.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb the groove for 10m and step right onto its right rib. Move up and back left (peg) and then on up past a borehole strike to a ledge, peg and nut belay.
2) 6a, 50m. Ascend the slight, black-streaked groove all the way to the red band under the main line of overhangs and make steep moves up a crack above it to a widening (junction with Kangaroo Wall). Traverse right for 3m to a groove and bridge up this via some technical moves to a break. Go back left for 2m and pull over a bulge to get established in the groove above. The groove leads leftwards to meet the final moves of Kangaroo Wall's third pitch, which is followed to a belay on the terrace.
3) 5b, 10m. The steep groove and crack above it has a difficult initial section but eases above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A superb route with a big feel which weaves its way up GO wall - take plenty of gear and long extenders. The starting groove is just to the right of a smooth wall which has an old peg about 5m up it.
P1 5b Climb the groove for 10m then move right onto the rib (cam) then back left and up to a vertical shot hole. Climb straight up the wall ( a bit dirty) to a ledge and peg & nut belays.
P2 6a Climb a shallow groove behind the belay then the wall above to the Umbrella Girdle break. Pull through a bulge to the foot of a chimney on Kangeroo Wall. Instead of climbing the chimney traverse right along a break (on Vulture Squadron) for 3 metres into a groove. Bridge up this (hard at the top) to a roof. Traverse left to the foot of another V groove. Pull into this then easing climbing leads up to a finish up an earthy bank.
P3 Climbs cracks above the belay, but is very overgrown.

P R Littlejohn, C King 29/Nov/1977.

Ticklists

Ultimate E4 ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dave Musgrove Jnr 26 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The top 2/3 of the second pitch is incredible. But be under no illusion, you’ve got to climb some loose ground to get there.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The top 2/3 of the second pitch is incredible. But be under no illusion, you’ve got to climb some loose ground to get there.

Logged Ascents

62 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 29 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 21
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Flies Aloft

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Wintour's Leap)

Loading Notifications...