Restricted Access
Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
- No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
- No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
- Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
- Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance.
- Do not remove large swathes of ivy.
Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.
Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.
Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.
Rockfax Description
The direct finish to Beef It over the small overlap. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The obvious direct finish to Beef it makes the parent route both harder and better. From the prominent post-crux undercut on Beef it, instead of yarding urgently rightwards, make tricky moves direct to and past the overlap to finish leftish across the slab to the Hungry eyes anchor.
Jamie Sparkes 01/Jul/2017.
Ticklists
Peak Lime new and re-equipped routes
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 193 | 11 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: in reply to why Beef it never went this way( J>S 2017 ) the right hand finish is the easier and therefore the more obvious way to go on the first ascent , back then in the mid 80s routes tended to still follow lines of weakness . Also Mark was probably trying to avoid going to close to Hungry Eyes at that time a pokey E5 the newer version looks to being done , erroneously ,by following the original line before stepping back left on the slab . the amount of chalk on the holds shows this to be the case Much out right , little to non strait up . | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: in reply to why Beef it never went this way( J>S 2017 ) the right hand finish is the easier and therefore the more obvious way to go on the first ascent , back then in the mid 80s routes tended to still follow lines of weakness . Also Mark was probably trying to avoid going to close to Hungry Eyes at that time a pokey E5 the newer version looks to being done , erroneously ,by following the original line before stepping back left on the slab . the amount of chalk on the holds shows this to be the case Much out right , little to non strait up . |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper
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Bored of the Lies
Grade: 7b+ ***
(Chee Dale Lower)