Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

Ascend wall in front of sycamore directly past two pegs. Traverse leftwards briefly before moving directly up to stand on the two obvious holds beneath a small roof. From the slab, arrange a nest of small and smaller wires before crossing roof to a ledge system (peg). Ascend the final wall through a gap in the top roof (hard-to-spot peg). Two peg belay.

Ticklists

Cool Names , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

Feedback

User Date Notes
Owen W-G 6 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Don’t miss easy-to-miss final peg under ‘gap in roof’ to protect final move
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don’t miss easy-to-miss final peg under ‘gap in roof’ to protect final move
Rick Sewards Jul, 2008 Show βeta
βeta: Combining this with Clutching at Straws and the upper section of Central Rib Route II makes a good way up this section of the crag
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Combining this with Clutching at Straws and the upper section of Central Rib Route II makes a good way up this section of the crag

Logged Ascents

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 14
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Motion Pictures

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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