Restricted Access
Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
The original high grade GO Wall free route has stunning exposure and climbing on its middle two pitches. Start at a well-defined corner crack between grooves.
1) 5a, 23m. Take the crack until moves out right and then left reach vegetated ground. Bypass the vegetation on the right and head up to a belay at the base of narrow steepening corner.
2) 6a, 30m. Climb the corner to the roof and then traverse left and down to a foothold on slabby ground. Above is a thread in the roof, climb past the thread and up to a corner and horizontal break. Traverse the break right for 2m and then head up a corner to a good little stance and peg and nut belays.
3) 5c, 20m. Move up the corner to the next horizontal break and move left to below a bulge and groove. Make a difficult entry into the groove and follow it to the terrace. Belay below the upper tier.
4) 5a, 12m. Take the groove on the right past a roof and finish up a crack © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This classic route climbs the steep groove in the centre of GO Wall.
5a Climb the groove and right rib to a nut and peg belay at the foot of the big groove.
6a Climb the groove to its top then launch up the steep and off balance crack to a rest at its top (good gear all the way). Traverse left and slightly down to a footledge under the bulge by a thread and old peg. Pull through the bulge rightwards on good pockets to the foot of a groove. From here traverse right 3m and climb the wall on good holds to belay on a ledge.
5c Climb the groove above the belay to the break, step left and go up to a ledge. The next section climbs the shallow groove and then a muddy bank to tree belays. It is tricky to start (5c) but soon eases.
There is a top 5a pitch but it is also possible to walk 25m left to tree belays at the top of King kong and ab to the 2 bolts left of KK's 1st belay , then ab again.
Affected by rockfall on this part of the wall, suggested upgrade to E5 for new guide.
P R Littlejohn, P Boardman 25/Nov/1977.
Ticklists
CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Ultimate E5 ticklist , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap
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Dog Eat Dog
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Wintour's Leap)