Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

Rockfax Description
Originally pitch two of A Grand Day Out started here. Owing to rockfall below, it is worth now starting the whole route from here and omitting pitch 1. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The upper and lower belay bolt hangers have been removed. This makes it a serious lead for both leader and second.

FA. The Ball's 2010 15/Jun/2010.

Ticklists

Easy Llanberis Slate Sport @ 3 to 5c , LSMC to do , Slate Pyramid

Feedback

User Date Notes
Brendan Rose 12 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: A few wires makes the start of this a lot safer
βeta?
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βeta: A few wires makes the start of this a lot safer
DanielDean 17 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: No hangers at the anchors at the start or end of this
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No hangers at the anchors at the start or end of this
Butty 3 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route. Belay bolt removed though we used high bolt from next route. First bolt is miles away so put in a couple of nuts in first crack. Top anchor is bomber thread and block so take a couple of slings
βeta?
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βeta: Brilliant route. Belay bolt removed though we used high bolt from next route. First bolt is miles away so put in a couple of nuts in first crack. Top anchor is bomber thread and block so take a couple of slings
Fruit 18 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Upper and lower belay bolt hangers removed. Make it quite serious for both leader and second.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Upper and lower belay bolt hangers removed. Make it quite serious for both leader and second.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
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