July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock) in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area.
The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.
BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.
Reason: Nesting Birds
A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.
Rockfax Description
Originally pitch two of A Grand Day Out started here. Owing to rockfall below, it is worth now starting the whole route from here and omitting pitch 1. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The upper and lower belay bolt hangers have been removed. This makes it a serious lead for both leader and second.
FA. The Ball's 2010 15/Jun/2010.
Easy Llanberis Slate Sport @ 3 to 5c , LSMC to do , Slate Pyramid
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Brendan Rose | 12 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: A few wires makes the start of this a lot safer | βeta? | |
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βeta: A few wires makes the start of this a lot safer |
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DanielDean | 17 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: No hangers at the anchors at the start or end of this | βeta? | |
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βeta: No hangers at the anchors at the start or end of this |
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Butty | 3 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Brilliant route. Belay bolt removed though we used high bolt from next route. First bolt is miles away so put in a couple of nuts in first crack. Top anchor is bomber thread and block so take a couple of slings | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brilliant route. Belay bolt removed though we used high bolt from next route. First bolt is miles away so put in a couple of nuts in first crack. Top anchor is bomber thread and block so take a couple of slings |
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Fruit | 18 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Upper and lower belay bolt hangers removed. Make it quite serious for both leader and second. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Upper and lower belay bolt hangers removed. Make it quite serious for both leader and second. |
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