Restricted Access

Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress. 

This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area.  Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area.  A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Start as per Inner Space and start at the back of the cave climbing the damp, but well protected and heavily featured wall moving diagonally for the roof. Rather than follow Inner Space all the way to the top, from the penultimate large bay, swing right on moderate holds on to the face of the cleft at about half height and bridge yourself into position. Follow a faint fault line using the opposite wall to bridge, continue until the line starts to dip diagonally downwards with sparse but acceptable gear. When almost at the end, make tricky and committing moves down to a good ledge. From here, cross over Deep Space and keep traversing rightwards for several metres until at the edge of the wall. Climb the wall as direct as possible with increasing difficulty, taking great care on the last five or so metres as the rock is loose and gear isn't great. A real adrenaline line where care is needed to protect the second. I recommend that the belay is made from the block at the end of the small arĂȘte/peninsula rather than the blocks above Deep Spaceas ropes can get caught very easily in the chockstone.

FA. Blake Williams, Andrew Gee 17/Apr/2017.

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Route of Interest
Chimera

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Penally East)

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