80m, 3 pitches. A sleeping giant, snubbed by previous guidebooks, and here given a makeover. The route is a coherent linkage of variations on the Buttress. Protection is fantasy in places. Start as of Giant's Cave Buttress.
1) 5a, 25m. Gain a ledge containing a small gangly hawthorn up and left of the belay. Climb a flake crack to a white patch under a small overhang (peg); then break out left up a grey wall to good holds right of a small ledge. Carry straight on up a shallow groove (hidden peg) to a ledge (on Giant's Cave Buttress) and the belay ledge just above.
2) 5a, 25m. Climb rightwards through the overhangs behind the stance using a right-slanting crack. Continue more easily up short walls, keeping right of the arĂȘte. When 5m below the final stance of Giant's Cave Buttress, traverse horizontally left to a sturdy ash tree.
3) 5b, 30m. Step left from the tree and climb a fissure past a mini cave, continuing to a pocketed break (in situ thread). Don't escape right (onto Giant's Cave Buttress), but trend slightly leftwards up the fine, steepening rib past luxurious finger pockets for the left hand (peg) until a tricky sequence over a bulge gains a small grey slab. a final delicate move up the slab gains a ledge. Continue easily, at first up a small groove, to the top, using Giant's Cave Buttress at will.

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User Date Notes
jamieevans 29 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Bomber no 4 just after crux bulge
Show beta
βeta: Bomber no 4 just after crux bulge

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High E3
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Route of Interest
Pink Wall Direct

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Avon Gorge (Main Area))

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