Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

The middle of the set of three bolt lines to the left of Hollow Talk used to finish leftwards, but now has its own lower-off (presumably to avoid the whitebeam on the ledge). Short, but with good and quite steep climbing, just right of the bolts, via a small roof. The loose flake above bolt 2 appears cammed in; best treat it gently, though.

Ticklists

CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , Wye Valley Sport

Feedback

User Date Notes
steviechunder 26 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: bottom half of starting flake is a little wobbly, but should be fine
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: bottom half of starting flake is a little wobbly, but should be fine
Lisa P 4 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Loose large flake, but can do the route without it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose large flake, but can do the route without it.
dougcope 19 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Big piece of loose rock between bolts 2 and 3, some care needed.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Big piece of loose rock between bolts 2 and 3, some care needed.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry

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High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
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