Restricted Access

Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:  

  • No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.

  • Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.

  • Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.

  • Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

  • Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

Rockfax Description
The flake-crack from sitting, avoiding holds out right to keep it independent. f3+ from standing. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Sit start at the obvious crack R of Breadcrumb Trail. Jugs out R are not used.

Mark McManus.

Feedback

User Date Notes
tomrainbow 28 Jan Show βeta
βeta: This was never recorded as a standing start. First ascent was from sitting which makes it a fun and tricky 6a+.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This was never recorded as a standing start. First ascent was from sitting which makes it a fun and tricky 6a+.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Bovey Woods

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Voting
High f6B
Mid f6B
Low f6B
High f6A+
Mid f6A+
Low f6A+
High f6A
Mid f6A
Low f6A
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Slopey Traverse Original

Grade: f6A+ ***
(Lynmouth)

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