Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Summer 2022

Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.

 

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 

 

Rockfax Description
A tough proposition even with the easier and safer start. The extremely bold original start is up the line of weakness 3m right and has the terrifying grade of E5 5c! An exciting 50m diagonal abseil gains a belay - a reasonable spike on a ledge below the main line of weakness. Climb the wall from a sloping ledge by a couple of suspect spikes - possible peg passed on the left. Move up and right into a sandy area below an overlap. Traverse right into the main groove system. Climb this past much decaying ironmongery. At about 25m, take the right-hand groove past a couple of overlaps. Step out right to a small ledge. Climb the wall to enter an upper vertical groove and up this to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Steve Long 2 Sep, 2017 Show βeta
βeta: A fabulous pitch. The original start is actually pretty steady and has reasonable pro, you just need to weave around a bit. The easiest way seems to be to ignore the bolts and step left almost immediately into the chimney line. There are wires up and right and a large cam up and left. (Or you can climb straight up to the obvious flat topped block directly above the old bolt) From here there are more pockets in the sandier rock out left again. Higher up its easy to miss the move right into the subsidiary groove as it looks quite unlikely. Its at the point where the main groove gets a bit blanker and there are at 2 pegs within a body length. A tricky step right gains a great hidden side hold in the the base of the righthand groove. This groove gives ace climbing with some high rock overs along the way.
Show beta
βeta: A fabulous pitch. The original start is actually pretty steady and has reasonable pro, you just need to weave around a bit. The easiest way seems to be to ignore the bolts and step left almost immediately into the chimney line. There are wires up and right and a large cam up and left. (Or you can climb straight up to the obvious flat topped block directly above the old bolt) From here there are more pockets in the sandier rock out left again. Higher up its easy to miss the move right into the subsidiary groove as it looks quite unlikely. Its at the point where the main groove gets a bit blanker and there are at 2 pegs within a body length. A tricky step right gains a great hidden side hold in the the base of the righthand groove. This groove gives ace climbing with some high rock overs along the way.

Logged Ascents

25 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Gogarth South Stack

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 2 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 8
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Followed
Lead
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Maze

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

Loading Notifications...