Rockfax Description
Harder and scarier than its name-sake on Red Wall. The first pitch is horrific - soft, loose and difficult to protect. The top pitch is harder (physically and geologically) but easier to protect. Start down the grassy rake, just above a line of overlaps.
1) 5c, 30m. Start up the groove and shuffle up to a roof. Waddle right onto a steep slab and head up and across this to another shallow groove. A committing finale leads to the ledge and belay.
2) 5c, 35m. To the right is a flake/crack, move out and then up it to a small ledge. Traverse right past a peg into a shallow niche and gain the diagonal crack above. Follow this crack up and right until it is possible to finish directly up to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Two good contrasting pitches: the first, being serious on poor rock, followed by a more technical compact second pitch. Start by a shallow groove, a few meters above the main slanting overlap on this side of the wall.
1 25m. 5c. Ascend the groove on the left, to the roof, then go right onto a slab, and move into a shallow rounded groove. A hard section leads to a belay on a good ledge.
2 37m. 5c. Step right, and climb a flake crack to a small ledge. Traverse right, peg, into a shallow niche, climb a diagonal crack above, then go straight up the wall to the top.
Joe Brown, Pete Crew (AL) 11 June 1967. FFA Henry Barber, 1976.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales E3's , E1-E3 adventure routes: seacliffs, outcrops just not mountains.

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