Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Summer 2022

Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.

 

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 

 

Rockfax Description
A man-eater of a pitch that is bold and committing. The gear is rather amusing but, if you fall, the joke will be on you. Start at a flat ledge near the top of the grassy rake line. From just above an overlap, traverse right above the abyss - peg - to the base of a vague groove. Move up this, exiting leftwards onto better rock and another peg (try not to snigger). Continue up the sustained but never-desperate wall to reach a deep break. Bury cams here and finally feel safe. Move left and climb great bubbly rock to reach the blind left-facing groove which is followed to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An enjoyable and yet terrorfying outing up the top of red walls. Not a route for failing on! Not so much of a man eater now but still a bold and frightening proposition. Start at the corner, near a prominent crack at the top of the grassy ramp. A bold traverse out right leads to a peg of sorts just above an overhang, continue round into a loose groove with some uninspiring spikes, continue up and exit out left onto more solid wall, where a peg resides, it is possible to assess the pegs condition, as you can easily see it all in the placement! Shake up the wall to reach the safety of the break, traversing left and right to arrange as much gear as possible. The line lies up the bubbly wall above to an obscured left facing groove. Climb this to belly flop over the top with much relief.
Jim Moran, Al Evans, Paul Williams, Ben Wintringham 6 Aug 1978.

Variation: Cannibal Direct Finish 45m E5 5c (R)
From the final break, step right and climb straight up between Schittlegruber and Cannibal.
Mick Pointon 1993
.
Variation: Cannibal with the Schittlegruber Gibbers finish E4 5c (R)
From the break shuffle right to the large left facing corner of Schittlegruber, climb this to where Schittlegruber swings out right at the roof, and wobble out left avoiding the difficulty, but with extra rope drag.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E4 ticklist

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Horizon

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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