Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Summer 2022

Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.

 

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 

 

Rockfax Description
A quality route through the big roofs. Good gear and solid rock with the hard climbing being short lived. Approach from the Castell Helen abseil - p.380 - and traverse right (looking in) to some sloping ledges below the large roofs.
1) 4b, 20m. Go up the arete of the small groove to a break. Move right to a ledge then walk right to belay below a prow/arete on the right. Take care to protect your second.
2) 5c, 45m. Move up the right side of the slab. Steep and technical moves right lead around the prow and onto a wall. Gain and follow the slanting crack right to a fine position on the blunt arete. Climb the run-out groove above easy slabs to belay beneath the headwall. Be wary of rope drag on this pitch.
3) 5b, 28m. Climb onto a large block from the left and tackle the strenuous but well-protected crack above. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales E3's , UK Lonely Leads , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The 30 best E3 routes in the UK? , Gogarth life list

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 45
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 42
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Moon

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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