Rockfax Description
A long girdle of this magnificent wall that takes in the atmosphere of the place at a friendly grade. The climbing is mostly straightforward apart from the wall on P3. Start by traversing below the Upper Tier then make a hair-raising descent down a vegetated rake to a small flake next to a slab above oblivion. You can abseil to this point from the bottom of Bezel.
1) 4a, 35m. Move onto the slab and follow the easy traverse line left and slightly down to the arete. Descend to a short chimney and belay on the ledge at its base.
2) 4b, 38m. Climb down and left to a massive flake and follow it below a tower and then back up the other side. Continue following the flake left past its apex. Belay here on Rat Race.
3) 5a, 40m. Make a tricky move up the steep wall to gain the slab. Then follow this left to below a groove (possible stance). Continue traversing left a to below a chimney/groove and ascend this to belay in a narrow corridor on the left.
4) 4b, 24m. Move through the corridor and turn right. Follow the easy ground up to a short groove, which leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , 2019 all-rounder Psyche list , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Heather Osborne 21 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: We abbed into the start - would not scramble down to the start from Bezel, very loose steep ground. Found out afterward there have been accidents scrambling into the route as well (described as a means of approach in Rockfax)
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βeta: We abbed into the start - would not scramble down to the start from Bezel, very loose steep ground. Found out afterward there have been accidents scrambling into the route as well (described as a means of approach in Rockfax)
Graeme Hammond 5 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: A 25m abseil with a 50m rope directly round a block at the top of the slope seems to pull OK and get you to safe ground by the embedded flake. (No tat)
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βeta: A 25m abseil with a 50m rope directly round a block at the top of the slope seems to pull OK and get you to safe ground by the embedded flake. (No tat)
James Morgan 25 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: guide book as everyone else says is misleading. Start the first pitch by dropping below the belay point then traversing. So much lichen it actually needs a yard brush to clean.
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βeta: guide book as everyone else says is misleading. Start the first pitch by dropping below the belay point then traversing. So much lichen it actually needs a yard brush to clean.
Paul Sagar 31 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax topo photo misleading: you don’t go up from the embedded flake, you drop down then traverse level before popping up over obvious rock feature you can see on the line of the arete
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βeta: Rockfax topo photo misleading: you don’t go up from the embedded flake, you drop down then traverse level before popping up over obvious rock feature you can see on the line of the arete
friendzone1234 21 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start
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βeta: Defo rap in to the start
friendzone1234 21 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start
βeta?
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βeta: Defo rap in to the start
friendzone1234 21 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start
friendzone1234 21 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start
friendzone1234 21 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start
friendzone1234 21 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start
friendzone1234 21 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Defo rap in to the start

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 30
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Britomartis

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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