6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Steep, sustained and frightening. Start from the left side of the Gogarth pinnacle. At high tide the ledge at the top of P1 can be gained by climbing over the pinnacle.
1) 5a, 12m. Climb slightly left up a steep wall, then head diagonally right to gain a large platform left of the pinnacle.
2) 5c, 30m. Step left and follow a diagonal line of weakness left with a hard move to gain a chimney. Struggle up this to the damp overhang curving up left. Follow the overlap up and left to a steep slab. Pull up and right across this to a good stance below an ominous-looking chimney.
3) 5b, 25m. A worrying pitch. Climb the steep and strenuous chimney - bold and friable - exiting the crack right onto a slab. Belay on the top of the slab.
4) 8m. Move down and right along a flake to below a corner.
5) 4c, 13m. Climb the steep corner to a belay on the top of the upper pinnacle on Gogarth.
6) 5a, 28m. Move down left and traverse to the foot of a crack. Climb this and follow the right fork until you can move left around a rib to reach an easier crack. Belay well up the slope. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Starts on the ledge just past the Gogarth pinnacle. If the tides in you'll be able to do the first pitch of Gogarth instead. Crux can be greasy so pay attention to the conditions. The chimney is 'fragile' but has reasonable protection. Good climbing with some very impressive scenery. Start on the large ledge to the left of the Gogarth pinnacle. At high tide or in high seas the traverse around the base of the pinnacle is inadvisable and the start of pitch 2. can be reached by climbing over the pinnacle (via Gogarth pitch one).
1. 12m. 5a. Steeply up the wall just to the left of the pinnacle to the large ledge on the pinnacle.
2. 30m. 5c. Step left and climb diagonally left to a tricky move up at 8m. Continue in the same line reach and climb an open chimney to a curving overlap. Follow this leftwards and up in a fine position; steep, strenuous and usually seeping. Continue up right onto a steep slab leading to a well-positioned stance. Great stuff.
3. 25m. 5b. Climb the intimidating brown chimney directly above, brittle and poorly protected, exiting rightwards. Up the slab to belay on Cordon Bleu, to the right of the tip of a large flake.
4. 20m. 4c. Shuffle down and right to climb a steep groove, the left side of a large flake, to a stance at the top as for Gogarth 3rd belay.
5. 30m. 5a Go back down slightly and left across the wall to a crackline. Up this, following the right branch. Move left around a rib to an easier crack, up this belaying well back.
Joe Brown and Pete Crew (1966) - several competing teams involved, hence the name

Great route, solid E3

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales E3's , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Gogarth life list

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User Date Notes
MHClimb92 4 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: They should call it brown race
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βeta: They should call it brown race

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
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Route of Interest
Fantasia

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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