Restricted Access
Seals breed in Parliament House cave during the autumn months and climbers should take particular care not to disturb them during the time from late August to late October when the young seal pups can be eailsiy sepreated from their mothers with devastating consequences.
A large (huge!) rockfall occured at the back of Parliement House Cave in 2017 which affects some of the routes in the cave and further rockfalls are likley!
Rockfax Description
A good introduction to the Main Cliff E5s. The name comes from the long neck and a small brain you'll need for this route. Start beneath the right-hand chimney.
1) 6a, 30m. Climb the chimney to where it closes at a steepening. Jam up the short crack (and jam some gear in!) and leave the recess making a hard move to gain the wall on the left. A couple more moves lead to gear and easier climbing which then leads to a small stance.
2) 5c, 30m. Step right into the steep groove and climb this on reasonable but somewhat creaky holds to good ledges.
3) 5c, 30m. Another creaky pitch that is steep and committing. From the belay, head up and right to reach a short steep wall - climb this to reach the blank corner. Move out right to climb some grooves on the arete, exiting up a shallow groove on the left. Scramble well up the slope to belay on a small rock wall over on the left. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A classic - well protected with good holds, but steep throughout. A good introduction to the harder Main Cliff routes. A full set of cams and slings are useful. Start at the base of an obvious chimney 10 metres left of the ledge at the base of Positron.
1. 6b.Climb the chimney (often damp) until it steepens at a small roof (large friend up and right). Swing out left onto the wall (crux) and climb with some urgency (small cams useful) on increasingly better holds to belay on vague ledges just to the left of the continuation chimney (gear up and left for the belay).
2. 5b.Pull rightwards into the base of the steep chimney and follow this, without any particularly hard moves, but extremely sustained throughout, to reach the ledges of Cordon Bleu.
3. 5c.A fine and enjoyable pitch. Traverse rightwards for 5 metres until below a short black wall. A tricky boulder problem leads to a ledge. Arrange gear and swing rightwards into the groove in the arete. Follow this thoughtfully to the top.
P.Crew and J.Brown,1966. FFA R.Fawcett,1980
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Main Cliff Big E5s , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , James' 2015 Summer. , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , James' Summer Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Misha | 10 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: The tat above the crux is very old, could do with cutting. It’s easy to place a thread there, so don’t think it needs replacing. There’s a decaying wire in the slot before the crux but that would be far harder to get out. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The tat above the crux is very old, could do with cutting. It’s easy to place a thread there, so don’t think it needs replacing. There’s a decaying wire in the slot before the crux but that would be far harder to get out. |
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| Keith Scholey | 21 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Scary third pitch. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Scary third pitch. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff
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Hunger
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)