550m, 13 pitches. Great climb, broadly following the south ridge, but involving corners, slabs, knife-edge ridge and towers, ramps and a small overhang. Decent involves spectacular abseils. A few pegs are present, the belays have mostly a peg or a bolt. Take a set of nuts and friends, and some extra tat for the abseils. Double 50m ropes.
APPROACH: First northwards towards the south ridge of the Piz Badile, then more eastward towards the south ridge of the Punta Sertori.
Start: a bit to the right of the end of the south ridge; in a long straight corner/chimney.
1. Up the corner/chimney; F4a. Avoid the right hand groove as this is very chossy - take the left hand side.
2. to 6. Over slabs with cracks, with ledges in between some 250 m up towards the first big tower. Pick your own route, fairly easy, F3 to F4a max.
7. Over the first tower to a ledge, 45 m, F4b.
8. Traverse easy to right (east) to foot of second tower, 45 m.
9. Over the second tower over the left ridge; crawl over ridge, descend slightly into small col. Exhilarating/intimidating pitch, huge exposure to the west. 50m, F4b.
10. Over ridge to a ledge, then keep right over slabs with cracks, 45m, F3b.
11. Scenic but easy ramp (right of ridge) to base of vertical corner, 45m, F3c.
12. Follow corner to ridge, belay on bolts, 45m, F4a.
13. Up to bolt and older pegs, slightly left over a small overhang to summit, with bolt belay, 45m, F4c.
DESCENT: Spectacular, but potentially risky abseil (you won't be able to retrieve ropes if they get stuck). Most abseil points have a peg and a bolt, it makes sense to strengthen the links with some tat.
Two abseils (30m and 50m) straight down from the summit on the Badile side, to a wide ledge. Follow ledge to right (looking down) for some 30 m or so to the next belay (cairn).
Abseil straight down for another 3-4 abseils to another large ledge, close to the base of the face. Follow this ledge left (looking down) towards a huge block. Go round the block and do another abseil or down climb (M/Diff) over smooth rocks.

P. Marimonto & D Contini. 1923.

Ticklists

Banford's Over Ambitious and ill Informed Val Di Mello Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Paul Sagar 21 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: At the start DO NOT go up the right hand groove of the two options to access the chimney system. This is filled with huge rocks of death choss. Go left. Also, the “make your own route” options 2-6 are harder than might be imagined especially in cloud - easy to wander into lines that are much harder than 4a (don’t follow the glint of pegs if you want to keep it casual).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: At the start DO NOT go up the right hand groove of the two options to access the chimney system. This is filled with huge rocks of death choss. Go left. Also, the “make your own route” options 2-6 are harder than might be imagined especially in cloud - easy to wander into lines that are much harder than 4a (don’t follow the glint of pegs if you want to keep it casual).

Logged Ascents

13 users have logged this
14 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Loading Notifications...