4 pitches.
The Stortoppen - Vesttoppen traverse is arguably the most popular and interesting of the two, offering more climbing. The climbing is good but can be tricky when wet. Most teams simul climb to the main crux pitches in Vesttoppen. The average time from Snøheim to Snøheim is approximately 10-11 hours if there are many teams on the ridge.
The hike from Snøheim to Stortoppen is relatively easy and takes a competant team ca. 2.5hrs to complete.
From Stortoppen, traverse the ridge then descend the col and re ascend along the ridge to Midttoppen. There is a loose descent to a small shelf at beneath Hettpiggen. It is wise to use helmets for this part if there are many people on the climb.
Hettpiggen: The route normally follows a small gully upwards to the right. However this is often snow filled and soaking wet meaning it is rarely desirable to climb. An alternative is to ascend diagonally leftwards. This follows low angled but poorly protected slabs to a shelf then a corner/groove (with a peg) that offers nice climbing up to the col between Midttoppen and Vesttoppen. There is a cord abseil station for those doing the traverse in the opposite direction here. Ascend the remaining part of Hettpiggen then zig-zag down on the northern side to the upper abseil station. Take a 45m abseil down to a shelf in the col between Hettpiggen and Vesttoppen. An alternative abseil (perhaps 30m in length) can be done by down climbing the ridge further, for those with a single rope.
Vesttoppen: Follow the shelf from the abseil off Hettpiggen approximately 40m to a small gully. Here the main climbing sections begin and it should be noted that the grade is based on alpine grading. The given n4 grade should not be taken lightly, especially as the pitch is often wet and many ascend in mountain boots. From the gully easy climbing leads to the fist crux (main) which is a large block and crack. A cam is wedged in the back. Ascend this awkwardly and continue diagonally up the crack where airy climbing leads to a ledge and threaded abseil station. Those with 60m ropes can continue but for communication purposes and to reduce rope drag it can be wise to belay here and split the climbing into two pitches. The remainder of the climb features really nice, fun climbing with two more and easier crux sections. The first is a hanging sideways traverse (Like Stetind) if you are short, or for those taller, a shuffle around a bulge on excellent hand holds and a hidden ledge for foot holds. The bulge can also be straddled. This leads to a series of small finger cracks that offer excellent moves with wonderful exposure up to the upper rappel ledge. The remainder of the route follows easy climbing towards the summit of Vesttoppen where a short wall constitutes the final part. This can either be ascended by a vertical crack or continuing along a shelf to a shorter wall which requires a layback and smear to ascend.
The return from Vesttoppen is direct. Follow the cairns and red T's. The boulder field can be loose in places and the lichen can be incredibly slippery when wet, so care is advised as it is ankle snapping terrain.
The n4 grade for Snøhetta is based on the old UIAA system (used before Norwegian grades became common) and is stiff! An approximate UK grade for the crux pitch is probably around S/HS 4b. However it must be remembered that the main crux is very awkward, often very wet and many ascend in mountain boots.
The hike from Snøheim to Stortoppen is relatively easy and takes a competant team ca. 2.5hrs to complete.
From Stortoppen, traverse the ridge then descend the col and re ascend along the ridge to Midttoppen. There is a loose descent to a small shelf at beneath Hettpiggen. It is wise to use helmets for this part if there are many people on the climb.
Hettpiggen: The route normally follows a small gully upwards to the right. However this is often snow filled and soaking wet meaning it is rarely desirable to climb. An alternative is to ascend diagonally leftwards. This follows low angled but poorly protected slabs to a shelf then a corner/groove (with a peg) that offers nice climbing up to the col between Midttoppen and Vesttoppen. There is a cord abseil station for those doing the traverse in the opposite direction here. Ascend the remaining part of Hettpiggen then zig-zag down on the northern side to the upper abseil station. Take a 45m abseil down to a shelf in the col between Hettpiggen and Vesttoppen. An alternative abseil (perhaps 30m in length) can be done by down climbing the ridge further, for those with a single rope.
Vesttoppen: Follow the shelf from the abseil off Hettpiggen approximately 40m to a small gully. Here the main climbing sections begin and it should be noted that the grade is based on alpine grading. The given n4 grade should not be taken lightly, especially as the pitch is often wet and many ascend in mountain boots. From the gully easy climbing leads to the fist crux (main) which is a large block and crack. A cam is wedged in the back. Ascend this awkwardly and continue diagonally up the crack where airy climbing leads to a ledge and threaded abseil station. Those with 60m ropes can continue but for communication purposes and to reduce rope drag it can be wise to belay here and split the climbing into two pitches. The remainder of the climb features really nice, fun climbing with two more and easier crux sections. The first is a hanging sideways traverse (Like Stetind) if you are short, or for those taller, a shuffle around a bulge on excellent hand holds and a hidden ledge for foot holds. The bulge can also be straddled. This leads to a series of small finger cracks that offer excellent moves with wonderful exposure up to the upper rappel ledge. The remainder of the route follows easy climbing towards the summit of Vesttoppen where a short wall constitutes the final part. This can either be ascended by a vertical crack or continuing along a shelf to a shorter wall which requires a layback and smear to ascend.
The return from Vesttoppen is direct. Follow the cairns and red T's. The boulder field can be loose in places and the lichen can be incredibly slippery when wet, so care is advised as it is ankle snapping terrain.
The n4 grade for Snøhetta is based on the old UIAA system (used before Norwegian grades became common) and is stiff! An approximate UK grade for the crux pitch is probably around S/HS 4b. However it must be remembered that the main crux is very awkward, often very wet and many ascend in mountain boots.
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Route of Interest
Vesttoppen - Stortoppen Traverse
Grade: n4 ***
(Snøhetta)