Rockfax Description
III, 180m. One of many wonderful Michel Piola routes. The belays are bolted and there is some fixed gear, but take a rack.
1) 6a. Climb the corner-crack then move right to belay on the ledge where the Bonatti-Gallieni begins.
2) 6a. Leave the ledge leftwards and follow a crack up a slab.
3) 5c. The slab continues to a belay beneath the extremely thin-looking slab above and right.
4) 7a+. Looks aren't deceiving! Piola was known as something of a slab expert, as this pitch will prove. After 15m move slightly left and continue up a delicate and bold-feeling corner. Belay just to the right of a distinctive overhang.
5) 6b. The slab above is excellent and easier than the previous one but the top section, just before the ledge where this route meets the Bonatti-Gallieni, is no pushover.
6) 6b+. Climb the excellent finger-crack to a comfortable ledge.
7) 6a. The crack continues. When it reaches a ledge, move left and climb the corner to reach the top of the pinnacle. © Rockfax

M.Piola, P.Strapazzon 1988.

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