Rockfax Description
II, 250m, 3 hours. If the couloir is dry, or if rocks are falling, the route can be started from the Col d'Entrèves with three pitches along the ridge to a junction with the Southeast Ridge. This is longer but safer than the couloir route, albeit with some sections of loose rock.
1a) From the Col d'Entrèves, gain the ridge via a short snow slope (slabby rock in dry conditions).
2a) 3c. Follow the crest of the ridge, turning any difficulties on the Courmayeur (south) side. The famous slab section just before the first pinnacle is climbed 'a cheval' on the ridge crest and is the highlight of the lower ridge (3c).
3a) Continue along the crest to reach the small col where the couloir on the East Face joins the ridge and the Southeast Ridge route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
If the couloir is dry, or if rocks are falling, the route can be started from the Col d'Entrèves with three pitches along the ridge to a junction with the Southeast Ridge. This is longer but safer than the couloir route, albeit with some sections of loose rock.

Feedback Always Hide βeta