Restricted Access
There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.
In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act), some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.
Rockfax Description
Another forgotten classic.
1) 5c, 20m. As for The Bone People.
2) 6b, 33m. Climb The Bone People to the second bolt, then swing onto the exposed right wall. Pass two bolts to a sloping foothold and continue up a small groove to the roof. The crux is gaining the right arete at the roof. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
1. Climb the runout 1st pitch of Bone People. (F6a+ R)
2. Climb rightwards across the steep wall passing 4 bolts to a rest below the big roof, traverse right around the arete (crux) then turn the roof into short groove to reach slabbier ground (runout) and a bolt belay. (F7a)
Ticklists
Slate Roofs , Llanberis Slate *** Routes
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gideon Quarries
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A Point of Snow Return
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Bryn y Dyfrgi)