Restricted Access
Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.
Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.
Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 4 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June).
Rockfax Description
The direct line up the corner where Greenmantle moves right. Move up just right of the cave to a corner at 4m and continue direct until below a tree higher up the corner. Climb the corner on good holds, past the tree (possible belay) to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Explanatory note on route name: This popular climb was given a new name by the FA in summer 2020 at the request of contemporary website compilers & guidebook authors.
FA. S.Dawson, P.Butler Apr/1966. Route name changed (Offensive Reference).
Ticklists
South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , S Devon & Dartmoor’s Severe Stars , The South Devon Time Machine (Part I)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| petecallaghan | 15 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Near the top of this route is a 1m spike which has become less attached to the face. It is rotating horizontally outwards and shows signs of recent movements. On inspection on 14/4/2020 it resisted removal, but it is detached. Loose vegetation and earth around it shows that it is recently mobile. Do not pull on it. If it falls it will hit the main access path below. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Near the top of this route is a 1m spike which has become less attached to the face. It is rotating horizontally outwards and shows signs of recent movements. On inspection on 14/4/2020 it resisted removal, but it is detached. Loose vegetation and earth around it shows that it is recently mobile. Do not pull on it. If it falls it will hit the main access path below. |
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| Dale Turrell | 7 Dec, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: To avoid confusion: this route was named "Tar Baby" by the first ascensionist and appears under that name in existing guide books. It was renamed by the first ascensionist in 2020. The name is almost certainly not racially inspired or offensive but it seems that some people have interpreted it as such. Tar Baby is a character from the Uncle Remus folktales which is a literal doll made of tar and turpentine used by Br'er Fox to entrap Br'er Rabbit (characters the two routes next to this are named after). | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: To avoid confusion: this route was named "Tar Baby" by the first ascensionist and appears under that name in existing guide books. It was renamed by the first ascensionist in 2020. The name is almost certainly not racially inspired or offensive but it seems that some people have interpreted it as such. Tar Baby is a character from the Uncle Remus folktales which is a literal doll made of tar and turpentine used by Br'er Fox to entrap Br'er Rabbit (characters the two routes next to this are named after). |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face
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Ben
Grade: S 4a ***
(Baggy Point)