Restricted Access
Construction works are currently ongoing as part of a housing development. These include rock works which are expected to affect some climbs. Understandably the construction company has requested that climbers stay out of the construction site for safety reasons. The BMC have requested discussions regarding future access. Update to follow.
Please do not enter the site during construction works.
from 05/07/2023
Rockfax Description
The original line that gained the upper wall from the right. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The original route on this wall before the direct was added is a very worthwhile alternative and avoids the desperate start! Start up the crackline to the right then traverse leftwards at the third bolt via hard moves before continuing up the hard wall above on very small holds. For the tick you have to clip the belay whilst holding the top of the ledge, no grabbing it!
Jon Clark 2008.
Ticklists
James' Summer Ticklist , Soft Touches , UK 8a and up
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nick Sherring | 15 Nov, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: since earlier in the year, the bigger crystal forming best part of the central sharp pinch in the middle of the top crux has gone. There are several variants on this whole crux section depending on height etc, but if you use this hold more than very briefly i feel it is definitely now harder, conditions also still being key for this crux. So if this was considered 'soft 8a' before, i doubt it is now unless you can lank past this hold as i've seen done by tall people, or use a different cunning approach. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: since earlier in the year, the bigger crystal forming best part of the central sharp pinch in the middle of the top crux has gone. There are several variants on this whole crux section depending on height etc, but if you use this hold more than very briefly i feel it is definitely now harder, conditions also still being key for this crux. So if this was considered 'soft 8a' before, i doubt it is now unless you can lank past this hold as i've seen done by tall people, or use a different cunning approach. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Lorry Park Quarry
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Fury Road
Grade: 8a ***
(High Tor)