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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Start at the broad rib behind the tree to the right of The Bone. Confidently climb the rib, stepping left to a small ledge and good nut slot on The Bone. Traverse right and use good holds to swing up into a groove, and follow it to the top, with interest maintained to the very end. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start behind the tree to right of The Bone, climb the rib stepping left to use the good nut slot. Traverse right and use good holds to swing up into groove, followed to the top, maintaining interest to the very end.
Ticklists
Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , The post lockdown local list , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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Notung
Grade: E1 5a ***
(Wintour's Leap)