Restricted Access

Access to Cademan Rocks for climbing has not been formalised at the current time and could be withdrawn in future if issues continue. At all times practice a minimal impact approach and leave the area in a better condition than you found it. It is important that visiting climbers respect the area, keep a low profile, behave well and cultivate a positive image to other users, local residents and landowners alike. 

  • Parking is very limited and poor parking damages verges and obstructs traffic – both of which give climbers a bad name with locals. Follow the detailed parking guidance in the ‘Parking and Approach’ section below and don’t be part of the problem.
  • If there is nowhere to park without contributing to these issues, please don’t squeeze in regardless – help to preserve long term access and go elsewhere or come back another day.  
  • Litter has noticeably increased in the woods in recent times which is a very obvious negative impact of increased visitor numbers. Do your bit to look after the woods and as well as taking your own litter home with you, pick up other litter you see. The BMC Hills 2 Oceans campaign is providing free litter pickers and bags to help climbers clear up their local crags – click here to get yours.
  • Do not climb over dry stone walls to access any boulders – it will damage the wall and annoy landowners. Take a longer approach if necessary to avoid this.
  • Overnight camping at the rocks or nearby in vehicles is very noticeable and likely to cause friction with local residents and landowners so please don’t do it.
From the start of crossdresser, climb the wall direct using the right arĂȘte and a high sidepull. Easier if you use the large foothold on the right but better and more stylish if you don't.

Please do not chalk footholds. Chalking up feet makes friction *worse* not better and causes footholds to become polished at a faster rate than they would do otherwise.

Mike Adams.

Ticklists

Leicestershire Bouldering (7A-7B) , WUCC Must Do Local Climbs , Cademan Class , Soft Touches , LSMC to do , Scott and Seery's rampage of 7s

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Logged Ascents

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Voting
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Miss Directed

Grade: f7A+ ***
(Cademan Wood and Broad Hill)

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