15m.

Rockfax Description
The tallest section of the South Face is taken by this smashing climb. Start at the base of a right-leaning flake crack. Climb the flake crack to the horizontal break and make a tricky move to stand on a ledge above it. Move left to a flake and climb up this and the wall above to a small rounded boss. Traverse right to more good holds and follow these to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Probabally the best route on the main face, although the exact route is slighly undefined/confusing. Climb easily up the flake on the main wall, to a strenuous and possibly undignified!(if tackled direct) move onto the ledge. From the ledge "find the easiest line up" (probabally out left) to bag the VDiff, or tackle it direct for a slightly harder challenge (S?). Then again,start up the wall to the left of the flake for a harder (5b) problem.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Dartmoor punter fifty (ish) routes in a day , 40 For 40 , I want a Pasty! , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , By May…

Feedback

User Date Notes
RupertHSmith 21 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Half ropes would have been really useful! I didn't find the bottom section up to the ledge too bad - and very easy to protect. The move off the ledge up the flake is committing but good holds are found above (*The juggy flake you attain is quite hollow*). Difficult to protect the next moves from the good holds (even though easy climbing from here), ended up placing a piece way out left then traversing back onto the route which caused horrendous rope drag (half ropes would make this easy) but otherwise would have been very bold.
Show beta
βeta: Half ropes would have been really useful! I didn't find the bottom section up to the ledge too bad - and very easy to protect. The move off the ledge up the flake is committing but good holds are found above (*The juggy flake you attain is quite hollow*). Difficult to protect the next moves from the good holds (even though easy climbing from here), ended up placing a piece way out left then traversing back onto the route which caused horrendous rope drag (half ropes would make this easy) but otherwise would have been very bold.
KKormos 8 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Feels tricky and scary for VD
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Feels tricky and scary for VD
Mallace 29 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Good lead, tricky moves, bad gear for anchor
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good lead, tricky moves, bad gear for anchor
Sue Hasel 23 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A strenuous move onto the ledge, can protect with cam placed down into the flake from above into the crack, stem bending over the ledge, as description says “strenuous and possibly undignified” Certainly was for me! belly flop! Tricky above the next flake as no gear but may have gone too high before traversing right to other flake, felt very tenuous for a vdiff!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A strenuous move onto the ledge, can protect with cam placed down into the flake from above into the crack, stem bending over the ledge, as description says “strenuous and possibly undignified” Certainly was for me! belly flop! Tricky above the next flake as no gear but may have gone too high before traversing right to other flake, felt very tenuous for a vdiff!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 144
Votes cast 119
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Whispering Doom

Grade: VD ***
(Elender Cove)

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