Superb crag with many different sections. The restriction affects the routes Star Wars to The Deerhunter.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restriction, to protect nesting Choughs, affects the routes Star Wars to Deerhunter.
Rockfax Description
This one's more amenable; good climbing, and good positions. Can be split into two pitches. From a belay close to sea-level (there's quite a few choices) climb the rib on the edge of the tall cave to arrive at the collection of big ledges. Continue up the rightwards-trending ramp above, then climb a short corner to the top. © Rockfax
FA. A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 07/May/1978.
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Grade: VS 4b ***
(Saddle Head)