Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions apply west of Sea Cow and east of Oran

54m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Exposed positions and an unusual line combine to give a very good route. Start in the corner of the bay.
1) 5a, 28m. Climb up to the right-hand end of an overhang and then continue up the corner to the faultline. Traverse left for 7m and then move up a crack in the overhang onto the wall above the faultline. Traverse left for 4m to a stance and belay.
2) 4c, 24m. Move up right to above the next line of overhangs and traverse right above the lip to a groove that heads up right to join the finish of Quality Street. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
5a, 4c

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kiddie68 8 Feb Show βeta
βeta: This route was sooo much fun! Great traverses, with good gear. Classic Swanage! Almost unavoidable rope drag on pitch 1, and a cruxy overhang. Reasonable belay on cams.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route was sooo much fun! Great traverses, with good gear. Classic Swanage! Almost unavoidable rope drag on pitch 1, and a cruxy overhang. Reasonable belay on cams.
Marti999 16 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: There is a thread just left of the old peg on the belay on pitch one.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a thread just left of the old peg on the belay on pitch one.
Antonysax 1 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Don’t go straight up in the second pitch ie get lost! Rock is very loose in places, traverse right as it says duh!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don’t go straight up in the second pitch ie get lost! Rock is very loose in places, traverse right as it says duh!!
luke43 23 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Great exposure on jugs mainly....better than quality street in my opinion
Show beta
βeta: Great exposure on jugs mainly....better than quality street in my opinion
Iain Weymouth 20 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I'd been looking forward to this one for a while having eyed the series of overhangs from its popular neighbours. The rock is very good, juggy and solid. The P1 left traverse is probably the crux, the pull through the overlap is straightforward. The nut belay is spacious and comfortable. The P2 right traverse is wild and airy but not difficult. Protection is very good and plentiful but be wary of rope drag. Technically low in the grade but definitely makes up for it with the exposed traverses. Well worth doing !
Show beta
βeta: I'd been looking forward to this one for a while having eyed the series of overhangs from its popular neighbours. The rock is very good, juggy and solid. The P1 left traverse is probably the crux, the pull through the overlap is straightforward. The nut belay is spacious and comfortable. The P2 right traverse is wild and airy but not difficult. Protection is very good and plentiful but be wary of rope drag. Technically low in the grade but definitely makes up for it with the exposed traverses. Well worth doing !

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 9
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Maypole

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Lulworth)

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