Rockfax Description
Exposed positions and an unusual line combine to give a very good route. Start in the corner of the bay.
1) 5a, 28m. Climb up to the right-hand end of an overhang and then continue up the corner to the faultline. Traverse left for 7m and then move up a crack in the overhang onto the wall above the faultline. Traverse left for 4m to a stance and belay.
2) 4c, 24m. Move up right to above the next line of overhangs and traverse right above the lip to a groove that heads up right to join the finish of Quality Street. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
5a, 4c
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Kiddie68 | 8 Feb |
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βeta: This route was sooo much fun! Great traverses, with good gear. Classic Swanage! Almost unavoidable rope drag on pitch 1, and a cruxy overhang. Reasonable belay on cams. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This route was sooo much fun! Great traverses, with good gear. Classic Swanage! Almost unavoidable rope drag on pitch 1, and a cruxy overhang. Reasonable belay on cams. |
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Marti999 | 16 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: There is a thread just left of the old peg on the belay on pitch one. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There is a thread just left of the old peg on the belay on pitch one. |
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Antonysax | 1 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Don’t go straight up in the second pitch ie get lost! Rock is very loose in places, traverse right as it says duh!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Don’t go straight up in the second pitch ie get lost! Rock is very loose in places, traverse right as it says duh!! |
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luke43 | 23 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Great exposure on jugs mainly....better than quality street in my opinion | ||
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βeta: Great exposure on jugs mainly....better than quality street in my opinion |
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Iain Weymouth | 20 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: I'd been looking forward to this one for a while having eyed the series of overhangs from its popular neighbours. The rock is very good, juggy and solid. The P1 left traverse is probably the crux, the pull through the overlap is straightforward. The nut belay is spacious and comfortable. The P2 right traverse is wild and airy but not difficult. Protection is very good and plentiful but be wary of rope drag. Technically low in the grade but definitely makes up for it with the exposed traverses. Well worth doing ! | ||
Show beta
βeta: I'd been looking forward to this one for a while having eyed the series of overhangs from its popular neighbours. The rock is very good, juggy and solid. The P1 left traverse is probably the crux, the pull through the overlap is straightforward. The nut belay is spacious and comfortable. The P2 right traverse is wild and airy but not difficult. Protection is very good and plentiful but be wary of rope drag. Technically low in the grade but definitely makes up for it with the exposed traverses. Well worth doing ! |
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Lulworth)