165m. An interesting and unusual mixed route taking a logical rising traverse across the north wall of Carn Dearg. Since the route does not lead to the top of the mountain, it is recommended in wild weather or conditions of deep snow. About 50m right of waterfall gully is a crest. Another 50m right is a bay, beyond which is the main north wall. Start on the right side of the bay by following a shelf to reach a vegetated groove on the left edge of the north wall.
1. 40m, climb the groove and ensuing chimney to a belay on broad terrace.
2. 25m, from the left end of the terrace climb a norrow vegetated groove and exit and exit right on a slab to reach the left end of flake terrace.
3. 40m, traverse the terrace rightwards to a stance at the top of a downward step.
4. 20m, slither down a chimney, then negotiate the crevasse by climbing down into it and moving along its base. belay on a huge block at its end above a narrow chimney.
5. 40m climb down the chimney and traverse right to a prominent block to the left of the shroud. from here a 25m abseil leads to easy ground.

C.Cartwright, S,M Richardson 12/Feb/2000.

Ticklists

Ben Nevis Grade V's

Feedback Always Hide βeta

2 users have logged this