55m.

Rockfax Description
A popular expedition. Start on the left side of the block used as the scramble up to the start of Cretin's Cavort.
1) 4b, 16m. Move up to a narrow pointed overhang right of a corner/groove and follow the cracks above it to a tree and belay.
2) 4b, 18m. Make a rising traverse leftwards up a sloping ledge, using underclings in places, to an earthy groove. Follow the groove to a short slab and a spacious belay ledge above.
3) 4a, 18m. Climb a groove to below the huge black overhang. Traverse right to the end of the overhang and finish up the corner past a tree.
3a) Inkspots Hangover, HVS 5b - A strenuous alternative up the right side of the overhang above the groove. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start just left of the large block.
1) 4b. Climb the cracks, passing a hard move, to reach a slab that leads to a ledge, and a tree belay.
2) 4a. Make a rising traverse, using underclings in places, to move left into an earthy groove. This groove leads to a short slab, and a spacious ledge.
3) 3c. Climb the hanging corner.
4) 3c. Traverse across the wall, using underclings, to reach a short corner. Climb this corner, past a tree, to a belay.

Ticklists

2020 Vision , Dewerstone Sub-HVS Multipitch Time Trial , Cream first! , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist , Routes for MCI

Feedback

User Date Notes
Florensics 27 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: On the 2nd pitch, there is a very large loose rock on the more left-hand side of the face, its got a very sharp edge along the top of it and is quite obvious.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: On the 2nd pitch, there is a very large loose rock on the more left-hand side of the face, its got a very sharp edge along the top of it and is quite obvious.
Bennyboy1233 27 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Got a bit lost on the second pitch, didn\'t traverse enough to the left
Show beta
βeta: Got a bit lost on the second pitch, didn't traverse enough to the left
stevevans5 18 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Some loose rock on pitch 2 - take care! The Dartmoor guide has the technical grades for pitches 1 and 2 the other way round
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some loose rock on pitch 2 - take care! The Dartmoor guide has the technical grades for pitches 1 and 2 the other way round
chudders1 13 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: 2 stars of anyone’s money !! 3 awesome pitches ! A must do !!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 2 stars of anyone’s money !! 3 awesome pitches ! A must do !!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for The Dewerstone

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 56
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 59
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gates of Eden

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Daddyhole Main Cliff)

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